****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (268342)

Available in some Vintages stores and from the winery, this is a quite opulent Chardonnay that's full-bodied and richly textured and flavoured. Look for peach and tropical fruit, with light toastiness from the barrel-fermentation and aging. The balance makes it a great match for roast chicken or grilled salmon. Drink or now or in the next three years. (RP)

**** drink now
Sandbanks Riesling 2004
VQA Ontario

A Riesling made from Prince Edward County fruit by one of the more successful winemakers who's getting her wines onto lists in Ottawa and elsewhere. This needs 10 or 15 minutes to open up (why not decant it?), but when it does it gives up quite lovely aromas and focused flavours (sweet pear, melon, tropical) with mineral notes. It's crisp and clean, and makes a fine partner for grilled and slightly spicy seafood. To order, email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)