Frogpond Farm Barrel-Aged Riesling 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12/500ml bottle

Frogpond is Niagara's only wholly organic winery. This Riesling, from the excellent 2001 vintage, was aged in large, old oval barrels that give complexity without any wood flavours. The wine gives off lemony zest aromas that give way to lemon and white grapefruit flavours and lively acidity. A very good wine for seafood that's had a squeeze of lemon. (RP)


Mountain Road Winery "Steve Kocsis Hillside Drive Vineyard" Unoaked Chardonnay 2000
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95

A rich, full-fruit Chardonnay that shows what you can do without oak. This is from a cool year in Niagara, but there are quite luscious tropical and sweet pear flavours, good complexity, and a long finish. Pair it with grilled salmon. (RP)


Mountain Road Winery "Steve Kocsis Hillside Drive Vineyard" Semi-Dry Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95

This Riesling has a dosage of 1999 icewine to give the flavours a lift. It comes through with rich lemon and mineral flavours that are sublimely balanced against the Riesling acidity. Quite an impressive wine. (RP)


Mountain Road Winery "Steve Kocsis Hillside Drive Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95

2001 was an excellent year in Niagara and this big (15.5% alcohol) Cabernet Sauvignon is still tightly-wound with big tannins. With plenty of complex dark fruit, it will hang in for another five years before it's ready to drink. (RP)


Palatine Estates Cabernet Franc 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15

There's a lot of fruit (plum, raspberry, crushed berries) in this Cab Franc, and none of the green pepper notes it often gives up. The texture is soft, with quite up-front tannins, and the balance is good. Drink it now with medium-rare grilled lamb, or hold for another three or four years. (RP)