****1/2 drink or cellar
Reif Estate ‘First Growth Totally-Botrytis-Affected’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara River $50.00 (200 ml) 8.0% alcohol
Newly released, this unique nectar has been carefully crafted by Klaus Reif and winemaker Roberto DiDomenico by selectively harvesting old-vine Riesling grapes naturally affected by botrytis and placing them in customized, temperature-controlled kilns until all are totally. botrytis-affected. Golden, brilliant, subtle and elegant, it has delicate aromas of stone fruit—apricot and yellow plum, a hint of pineapple, sweet citrus and an underlying earthiness. Silky smooth in texture, it’s light-medium bodied with a replay of apricot, lightly candied citrus and an elusive note of earthy minerality. A spine of lively, citrus acidity creates a fine balance through the lingering finish. A delightful match for blue cheese or foie gras. Available at the winery or via Reif Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2008
VQA Niagara River $46.95 (375 ml) 10.0% alcohol
Deep gold with an amber hue, it’s produced from 26-year-old Vidal vines. Expressive aromas entice—honey, orange liqueur and orchard fruit along with apricot and nectarine. There’s a rich, luscious, honeyed texture and fabulous balance of sweet fruit and fresh, tangy acidity. Flavours of ripe, tree fruit and crème caramel are matched with a lifted note of zesty, orange rind. The appealing contrast of the opulent texture and the refreshing tang carry through on the long-lasting finish. Enjoy on its own or with strong cheese. Available at the winery or via Reif Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Stratus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $75.20 13.5% alcohol
Hard to find better Cabernet Sauvignon than this from Niagara or many other places on the planet—it’s alluring and exotic on the nose with Asian spice, mocha, dark berry fruit and mint-infused cherry aromas. Medium-full bodied, silky smooth and brimming with ripe, succulent, complex flavour—black currant and juicy, black Bing cherry adorned with hints of toasty oak and bittersweet chocolate—it’s perfectly balanced supported by sweet, supple tannin. Offering structure, complexity and a ton of pleasure, you could pour now after a three-hour decant, but better cellared 2013 to 2017 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Stratus Petit Verdot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $42.20 12.5%alcohol
Here’s another limited-production, single varietal red that you’ll need to be nimble to get. The nose is all about dark berry fruit, spice and charry, toasted aromas. Dark, dried berry fruit mingles with fennel and assorted savoury herbs all firmly in the grip of a solid tannin structure framed by lashings of racy, red berry and rhubarb acidity. It’s full-bodied, well textured with a drying finish. Best to cellar and pour 2014 to 2017. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Stratus Icewine ‘White’ 2008 
VQA
Niagara Peninsula $40.15 200 mL 12.5% alcohol
Honeyed orchard fruit and floral aromas abound on the nose. The palate’s treated to a persistent stream of sweet, succulent flavour—tropical fruit, candied citrus and nectarine—carried along on a nicely textured bed of moderating acidity. It’s deftly balanced providing a mouth-watering, lengthy finish. Sip on its own as dessert or pair with apple, pear or peach fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)