Hidden Bench - Estate fruit, hand picked, hand sorted, gently whole bunch pressed coupled with sustainable agriculture and low-yield practices coalesce with the passion of owner/vigneron Harald Thiel to produce premium and ultra-premium wine, especially Chardonnay, with a definite sense of place. Terroir-driven and artisanal, their wine is out of the ordinary. There’s an exciting 3-day, cool-climate Chardonnay event being held in Niagara next July… Read more

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hidden Bench ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $32.20 13.1% alcohol
Meticulous fruit handling—hand picked and sorted, whole-bunch pressed, barrel fermented with lees stirring and French-oak-aged 10 months—coalesce with low yields from three, prime vineyard sites and the cool-climate-Chardonnay passion of owner/vigneron Harald Thiel to fashion this well-structured, flavourful gem. Citrus, toasty notes and hints of spice on the nose, there are waves of tropical fruit, apple and citrus that persist through the crisp and refreshing, lengthy aftertaste. It’s medium bodied and generously textured showcasing premium, cool-climate Chardonnay with adornments of elegance and complexity. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hidden Bench ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $38.20 12.5% alcohol
Complex and perfumed on the nose, aromas of berry fruit and spice-infused cherry abound. Unfined, unfiltered, moved only by gravity and brimming with flavour—wild field berry, cranberry and pomegranate—this is deftly balanced and lip-smacking delicious. The long finish is dry and racy with an underpinning of ripe, supple tannin. Decant for three hours if drinking now, or cellar and open 2014 to 2019. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Hidden Bench ‘La Brunante’ 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $85.20 14.3% alcohol
Made only in best vintages, this rich and concentrated flagship, Bordeaux blend—53% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 11% Cabernet France—rips from the glass with bold aromas and complex, beautifully structured flavour. Aromas of dark, spiced berry fruit and notes of mineral provide segue to a balanced and delectable wash of ripe, succulent black cherry, black currant and nuances of mocha. It’s full-bodied and generously textured showcasing the fabulous ’07 red wine vintage to perfection. Order for daily home or office delivery by the case of six—mix or match—from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)

Pillitteri Estates Winery - The ‘Exclamation’ series denotes flagship, top drawer and extra special. These ultra-premium wines are packaged in a stunning bottle with a silver-coloured, thick medallion on the front (or is it the back?) depicting a series of stainless-steel chairs commissioned by winery founders Gary and Lena Pillitteri. The chairs represent and tell a fascinating story of the Pillitteri family. The back label (or is it the front?) lists the grape and technical information of the wine. Front or back, it’s what’s inside that matters and these wines are every bit as stunning as the packaging. For now, available only at the winery and they won’t last long.

**** cellar
Pillitteri ‘Exclamation’ Cabernet Franc ‘Reserve’ 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $35.20 13.0% alcohol
Alluring, exotic and highly perfumed aromas—charry toast, black olives, dark berry fruit and dark chocolate percolate freely from this tangy, tannic behemoth. Full bodied and full of savory herb and spice, there’s a steady wash of red currant, savoury rhubarb and racy pie cherry. It’s generously textured with good fruit on the dry aftertaste that’s still firmly wrapped in grainy tannin. Drink 2015 to 2020 alongside grilled, smoked back ribs slathered in spicy, hot BBQ sauce. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Pillitteri ‘Exclamation’ Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Reserve’ 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $38.20 13.5% alcohol
Dark, dusky, alluring aromas—charred toast, notes of savoury herb and aromatic bitters—waft from this complex, beautifully textured, full-bodied gem. It’s tangy on entry then coats the palate and lengthy aftertaste with succulent, ripe berry fruit. Not for sissies, it’s powerfully structured with an abundance of fruit, acidity and solid tannin underpinning. Drink 2014 to 2020 after careful cellaring. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

Riverview Cellars Winery - It’s difficult to keep up with the 100+ wineries in Niagara, but here’s a family-owned concern —Pillitteri family, closely related to the winery above—you’ll want to make note of. As you’ll see below they’re making quality wine that’s fairly priced and shipping free to home or office with a liberal, mixed-case policy. Vinified from primarily estate-grown fruit, the CCOVI-trained winemaker, Angela Kasimos, is fashioning award-winning wine showcasing balance, versatility with food and a strong aromatic profile.

**** drink now
Riverview Cellars ‘Angelina’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara River $19.95 12.8% alcohol
Alluring, exotic and highly perfumed, beckoning aromas of honeyed pear, leesy citrus and toast abound. Citrus, crisp, green apple and tangy white grapefruit are predominant throughout. It’s mid weight, generously textured with a lip-smacking refreshing aftertaste. This is rock-solid 4 stars ratcheting up a notch poured alongside seafood like calamari rings or steamed mussels. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Riverview Cellars Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara River $24.95 12.8% alcohol
Pale ruby, this is a Burgundian-style wine with lovely aromas of sweet red fruit, spice and earth. Light-medium bodied and dry, it’s characterized by vibrant nervy acidity, moderate tannins, notes of white pepper and bright, red cherry/berry flavours—red cherry, raspberry and cranberry to the fore. Lengthy on the finish, the slight peppery note and the vital fruit flavours persist. Versatile with food, it’s a good match with pork in red wine sauce, or cellar for 2-3 years. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Riverview Cellars Riesling Ice Wine 2009
VQA Niagara River $54.95 11.9% (375 ml) alcohol
Brilliant gold, alluring and seductive, this is an absolutely delicious icewine! Enticing, lifted aromas of lemon-grass, crème brulée, pineapple, marmalade and a whiff of petrol drift from the glass. The texture is luscious yet refined—sweet, ripe fruit balanced with subtle, refreshing acidity. The balance is outstanding and the finish, reminiscent of lemon marmalade, goes on forever. Enjoy on its own or pair with strong cheese or foie gras. You’ll want to cellar a bottle or two to enjoy over the next 10 years. Available by the mixed case for daily home or office delivery (free for case of 12 or 3 of icewine) from Riverview Cellars. (Susan Desjardins)

Stratus – Their winemaker, J-L Groulx, is a master of assemblage—blending wines to bring out not only the best in each, but coaxing synergy from them. Stratus was the world's first winery to earn LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Canada certification; think of LEED certification as much tougher than simply ‘organic’ as it includes the buildings as well as the land. As a winery, they’ve taken sustainability and resources invested in design, equipment, technology and winemaking techniques to Stratus-pheric heights. The results are impressive—quality wine in each price bracket.

****1/2 drink now
Stratus Icewine Red 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (56689) 200 mL 12.5% alcohol
This blend is divine; racy, red fruit flavours—strawberry, raspberry and spice-infused plum—ride on a bed of moderating acidity showcasing a glorious mouthful of icewine. It’s generously textured, far from cloying, and layers on delectable notes of cranberry and ripe, juicy pomegranate on the lingering aftertaste. A treat on its own, it pairs well with red fruit flan—the perfect size for gifting or romantic tête è tête. Free delivery to home or office for cases of 6 bottles or more from Stratus. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Stratus Icewine Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (56671) 200 mL 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of orange, lemon-peel marmalade and key lime abound dishing up a huge mouthful of mouth-watering nectar. This is balanced, well structured and simply delicious… every sip. The purity of fruit on the palate—mango, orange and candied white peach—glides effortlessly through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Perfect for sipping on its own or alongside tarte tatin, pear or lemon fruit flan. Free delivery to home or office for cases of 6 bottles or more from Stratus. (Vic Harradine)