**** cellar
Colio Estate 'Signature' Meritage 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $69.35
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, approximately 1/3 each. Winemaker Carlo Negri's pride and joy, it's only released in great years—none since 2002. Cherry, mulberry and oaky aromas form segue to a robust and rich wave of flavours—spiced black plum and Bing cherry to the fore. No jammy fruit bomb, this displays restraint and finesse on its medium-bodied frame. For now it's tightly wound with perceptible tannin with a way to go. Drink 2012 to 2018 with osso bucco. Order direct from Colio Estate Winery. Also available in Colio retail stores across Ontario. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Colio Estate 'Orchard Blush' 2007
VQA Ontario $8.45
A unique blend of 91% Vallard Noir (a French hybrid) and 9% Pinot Noir, this is just in time for fun in the summer sun. It's an easy going and delightful aperitif when served well chilled. Floral and strawberry aromas lead to sweet flavours of ripe strawberry and cherry. Although a (3) on the sugar scale, the wonderful acidity keeps it balanced and not at all cloying or overly sweet. Pair it with pork that's been crusted with a sweet mustard sauce. Order direct from Colio Estate Winery. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Vidal 'Sweet Revenge' Ice Wine 2006
VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (672410) 375 mL
This is South African-born wine maker Marlize Beyers' first crack at ice wine and what a triumph it is. Passionate and precise, she patiently coaxed every ounce of pleasure from the fruit. Harvested at a whopping 41 Brix (incredibly sweet grapes) producing 12.6% alcohol, this is well balanced and hugely textured. And, it's full of opulent fruit flavours—honeyed apricot, nectarine and pear plus a spine of racy citrus acidity to keep it lip-smacking good. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now to 2015 with simply prepared fruit desserts. Order direct from Flat Rock Cellars. (VH)

**** drink now
Mountain Road Red 2003
VQA Ontario $15.95
Winemaker and Renaissance man Steve Koscis is one of Niagara's best kept secrets; he's known primarily to passionate wine-lovers who make the trek to Niagara, pity. There's a mélange of aromas and flavours in this medium-bodied blend with black currant, cherry and toasty spicy vanillin notes among them. The finish is lengthy and zesty with red cherry and red currant flavours galore. Order direct from Mountain Road Wine Company. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Mountain Road Vidal Ice Wine 1999
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95
This gold medal winner provides an amazing taste treat and experience—a quality aged ice wine for less than most current vintages. Look for silky smooth fruit-driven nectar providing aromas of pineapple, truffles and desiccated tree fruit. Sweet ripe and spiced nectarine flavours mingle with pineapple and mango. The finish is lengthy and incredibly (given the sweetness) well balanced; the racy acidity leaves it clean and refreshing and that leaves you wanting more. Order direct from Mountain Road Wine Company. (VH)