****1/2 drink or cellar
Daniel Lenko "Signature" Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95
Lenko's 'Signature' Chardonnay is made from his oldest vines in select years. What you get from the 2004 vintage is a stunningly complex wine that shows lovely sweet and rich fruit (peach, some tropical) with drifting layers of crème brûlée, caramel and soft spices. It's full bodied and plush, and has impressive structure. Drinking well now, it's good for another four or more years. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95
This is a well-made, well-priced and very attractive Pinot Noir. The flavours are dominated by sweet black and red cherry, strawberry, and savoury notes. Look for an underlying earthiness that gives added complexity. Medium bodied and nicely balanced with good acidity and tannic grip, this makes a great partner with grilled lamb chops. Order from www.flatrockcellars.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95
This is a quite stunning Riesling, delicious in flavours and vibrant in texture. Look for lovely aromas and flavours of peach and tropical fruit with lime and grapefruit-dominant acidity. It's off-dry and finely balanced with the style and character of a classic. Drink it with spicy appetizers or Asian dishes. Order from the winery at www.flatrockcellars.com. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Hillebrand 'Trius' Red 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
The 'Trius' series from Hillebrand has earned a solid reputation for quality and value, and this 2005 Red adds to it. The 2005 vintage was difficult-a tough winter followed by a hot summer-and Hillebrand lost 80% of its grapes. What remained was high quality, as this 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot blend shows. It delivers intense aromas and flavours of dark fruit (plum, berries) with notes of spice and chocolate. The texture is rich, smooth and full, and the tannins are grippy and sweet. The only downside: it's in short supply, so if you want to taste this, get your order in soon. Order from www.winecountryathome.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Hillebrand 'Trius' White 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95
This the first Trius White, and it augurs exceptionally well for the new line. It's a blend of Gewürztraminer (33%), Riesling (30%), Pinot Gris (28%) and Chardonnay (9%) that more than delivers on flavour and elegance. The aromas and flavours are primarily in the peach and apricot zones, with attractive splashes of floral and spice. The flavours are quite delicate but they're well defined, and the overall effect is elegant and flavourful. A spine of clean acidity makes this a more-ish wine that drinks well by itself or with slightly spicy seafood and chicken dishes. Order from www.winecountryathome.com. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Huff Estates Gamay 2005
VQA Ontario $32.95
This is a lovely Gamay from a Prince Edward County winery that's establishing a solid reputation. Look for lively flavours of tart and sweet cherries and berries, but don't expect anything light and frivolous. There's real depth and breadth to the flavours and texture here, and you'll find good spiciness and even some earthy smokiness. Drink it with grilled chicken and sweet vegetables. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Mountain Road Wine Company Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2003
VQA Beamsville Bench $16.15
This is very well made and makes a lovely partner for rich chicken and pork dishes, although it also goes well with grilled Atlantic salmon. The flavours are in the classic peach zone, with hints of tropical fruit, sweet pear and apple. It's full bodied and well balanced, with a rich, creamy texture, and it finishes very well. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mountain Road Wine Company Reserve Chardonnay 2003
VQA Beamsville Bench $26.15
This is a quite delicious Chardonnay, rich, plush and buttery, with delicious fruit complexity. Look for dominant aromas and flavours of ripe peach, along with yellow plum and some melon and tropical notes. It's well structured with a seam of clean acidity to balance the creamy richness, and it finishes long. Mountain Road is too-little known among Ontario wine-lovers. Check out their range as you order some of this at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or call 905 563 0745. (RP)