The following wines were tasted with winemaker extraordinaire, Jean-Pierre Colas of Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery. Shortly before coming to Canada in 1998, he made the Wine Spectator's White Wine of the Year, a 1996 Domaine de Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. More recently and closer to home, he was named 2006 Winemaker of the Year at the 2006 Ontario Wine Awards. All these wines may be ordered from the winery by clicking on the link to Peninsula Ridge found on the winecurrent.com website.

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge Fume Blanc 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.95
Gorgeous aromatics of brioche, grassy nettles and a touch of floral waft from the glass of this medium-bodied Sauvignon Blanc. The texture is round and smooth as satin while the flavours of gooseberry and pleasant, almost unobtrusive citrus zest are underpinned by a hint of minerality. The finish is lengthy and clean. In the end, you have a tangy gem that is a taste treat on its own and a perfect match to freshly-shucked oysters. (VH)

***** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
The lifted nose of vanilla, honeycomb and spiced baked apple aromas is quite beguiling. It is medium-textured and in perfect balance. Expect apple, spice and peach compote flavours that are in delicate harmony with moderating acidity. This is suggestive of Burgundy, in style and finesse, that speaks to the winemaker's nearby heritage. The lengthy finish portends life and liveliness to 2010. The quality to price pendulum is swung crazily in your favour. (VH)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Equinox 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95
Jean-Pierre suggests serving this only slightly cooler than room temperature to enhance the delicate aromatic profile of the wine. The blend here is 40% Chardonnay, same for Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Viognier. Orange blossom, toast and honey drift from the glass of this medium-bodied beauty while the flavours are a mélange of tropical fruit and earthy, minerally notes. He suggests a pairing with a soft cheese like Époisses. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge Syrah 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95
If you are seeking something along the line of a big Aussie Shiraz, look elsewhere. This is definitely Syrah, displaying a peppery and spicy nose with red cherry and black plum flavours to the fore. The plush mouth feel, fine tannins and generous dollop of tang coalesce into a well-balanced red that adds a touch of cranberry on the lengthy finish. This would match up well to rack of lamb. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95
Toast, smoke and oak blow off this award-winning - Best Merlot at Cuvee - red. You will discover black plum, black licorice and black cherry flavours galore. You will also discover noticeable tannins. This deserves to be drunk now to 2012 after a 2 or 3 hour decant. It is concentrated and rich with a lengthy and luxurious finish. Pair to a hearty stew like beef daube Provençal. (VH)

***** cellar
Peninsula Ridge Vintners Private Reserve Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $99.95
This is for someone looking for a very special wine, possibly as a gift for a discerning oenophile. A whopping big red with oodles of smoke, oak and cherry aromas billowing from the glass. Gobs of black juicy fruit and spice flavours roll around the palate and are deftly balanced with moderating acidity and firm ripe tannins. One of those wonders of the wine world that is approachable now, after a 4 hour decant and paired to grilled rare red meat, and will cellar nicely on into 2015. (VH)