****1/2 drink now
Legends Estates Winery Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.80
An amazing wine that got this way by: whole cluster, lightly pressed grapes, 20 to 25 year old vines, Beamsville Bench fruit and the best vintage since 1998. This rich and concentrated zinger has 17g of residual sugar that is the perfect foil to the spine of balancing zest that run through it. Minerality, citrus and peaches form the flavour profile while the finish is clean and refreshing. Order at www.legendsestates.com . (VH)

**** drink now
Stratus Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.00
Hand harvested estate grown fruit and a focus on wines with verve coalesce in this superb white. Gobs of minerality is coupled with a subtle hint of petrol to fashion the aromatic profile. It is light-bodied, but packs a considerable punch with zingy acidity, lemon zest plus a very long and cleansing finish. Order directly from www.stratus.com then pair to sushi or grilled firm white fish with a squirt of lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.00
This opens up with savoury cherry aromas then sets you on your ear with spectacular flavours of currants, tar and licorice. The still grippy tannins and bracing zestiness need a just a shade more time to become integrated, but by then the few cases remaining will be gone, so order now. This is a concentrated, rich and luxurious Cab Franc. Drink 2007 to 2012 with great confidence. Order directly from www.stratus.com. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Vineland Estates Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95

You might find this in some Vintages stores but, if not, order it direct from the winery. It delivers rich, concentrated aromas of dark fruit (plum, cherries, berries) with layered notes of spice, pepper, and green tobacco. It has a rich, plush texture and drying tannins, and will keep nicely for another three-four years. Pair it with grilled red meat dishes. (RP)