Mountain Road Riesling Dry 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (240068)
Very dry, in fact, and good value. Look for quite delicate fruit that spans the range from peach to citrus, all lifted by brisk acidity. Light-to-medium in weight, with light diesel and honeyed notes, it's clean and crisp and an excellent match for freshly-shucked oysters or grilled seafood. (RP)


Mountain Road Unoaked Chardonnay 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (200062)
From Mountain Road's Hillside Drive Vineyard, planted in 1996, this has all the hallmarks of Chardonnay Musqué: perceptibly off-dry with distinct spiciness. But, says owner/winemaker Steve Kocsis, it's straight Chardonnay and the flavours and texture are peculiar to the vineyard. So it's a quite atypical (and delicious) unoaked Chard, with flavours like peach, apricot pit, while peach and melon, all with that spiciness. It's a great buy at this price, and an excellent partner for spicy Asian dishes. (RP)


Mountain Road Barrel-Fermented Reserve Chardonnay 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (200963)
Owner/winemaker Steve Kocsis crops the grapes for this Reserve-level Chardonnay down to 1.5-2 tonnes/acre and gives it two or three years in French oak. The result of this care and time shows in the bottle. You get lovely sweet fruit (peach, pear, hints of tropical), smooth texture, fine balance, and oak that contributes to the texture rather than the flavour. This will easily cellar another three-four years, but you can drink it now with a rich poultry dish. (RP)


Mountain Road Wine Company Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (131366)
The aromas are quite restrained, and you have to search for the underlying notes of dark fruit and spice. But this really comes alive on the palate, with densely-flavoured plum, black cherry and berry flavours lifted by smoky and spicy accents. It's big bodied and intense and a reminder of how good a vintage 2001 was in some parts of Niagara Peninsula. Pair this with smoked sausage for a taste treat. (RP)