***1/2 drink now
By Chadsey's Cairns "Prince Edward County" Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Ontario $24
Bearing the gold "100% Prince Edward County Grown" sticker that effectively established a PEC appellation in advance of legal recognition, this is a light-medium Pinot with quite well-defined fruit and nice complexity. Prince Edward County has some distance to travel, but wines like this are benchmarks along the way. It's reminiscent of a light New Zealand Pinot, and pairs well with straightforward grilled lamb. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Legends Cabernet Franc 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula
Very good typicity in this lighter style of Cabernet Franc. It has good red fruit flavours (plum, cherry) with hints of savoury, sage and the classic pencil-shavings. It's dry and well balanced, with a crisp, food-friendly texture. Pair it with osso bucco. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Stoney Ridge Reserve Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula
This is a Pinot that packs a lot more weight than its appearance in the glass suggests. It's quite pale and transparent, and right now there's sour cherry, but not much else, in the aromas. But get it in your mouth and your taste buds are enervated by serious depth of flavour, where dark, sweet and sour cherry mingle, and eucalyptus and herbal provide highlights. It's medium bodied with very nice length and pairs well with grilled herbed lamb. (RP)