Carmela Estates Winery Riesling Reserve 2003
VQA Ontario $14.95
This, from 75% Prince Edward County fruit, illustrates the dazzling potential of this burgeoning wine region. Floral, mineral and honeyed notes form the aromatics while the palate is treated to an abundance of zesty lemon and grapefruit flavours. This has good texture, is well balanced and would be a lovely match poured with grilled fish. Order from the winery at 1-866-578-3445. (VH)


Cave Spring Gewürztraminer 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula
Look for lovely weight and texture here. It's a classic Gewürztraminer in its flavour profile, has excellent balance with food-favouring crispness, and a quite luscious, mouth-filling texture. Spicy Thai food is the obvious choice, so take a bottle to your nearest Thai BYO. For BYOs near you, check www.bringmywine.ca. (RP)


The Grange of Prince Edward Estate Winery "Trumpour's Mill Assemblage" 2004
VQA Ontario $14.95
This mélange of 100% County fruit (40% Riesling, 30% Pinot Gris, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Melon de Bourgogne, aka Muscadet), blends into a beautifully textured and flavoured white. This off-dry gem exhibits floral and honeyed aromas while the texture is satiny smooth with gushers of tropical fruit and citrus flavours. One would be proud to serve as an aperitif or paired with spicy Asian cuisine. Order from 1-866-792-7712 (VH)


Kacaba Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00
Another Pinot Noir that reinforces Niagara's quite firmly-established claim to be an excellent region for the variety. This delivers solid fruit from front to back, with flavours of black cherry and mulberry and herbal notes. The balance is very good and it finishes well. It's very successful and pairs equally well with mushroom risotto or duck breast with cherry sauce. (RP)


Lailey Vineyards Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00
A finely crafted wine via 10 months in French oak, 8 on the lees and full malolactic. It has a gorgeously plush and creamy mouth feel that coats your mouth with spicy green apple and tropical fruit (white peach and Anjou pear) flavours. From the vanilla and orange blossom nose to the cleansing and spicy finish, this is a winner. Order from the winery via our www.winecurrent.com link. (VH)


Lakeview Cellars Baco Noir 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20
A big wine that demands big food like well-seasoned grilled red meat (like a pepper steak). It's complex, with a base of concentrated black plum and cherry infused with notes of herbs, spices and smoke. The balance is excellent. This is a good price for the quality. (RP)


Peninsula Ridge Vintner's Private Reserve Chardonnay 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $42.00
Made wholly from grapes grown on the winery property, and aged in new French oak, this is elegant and impressive. Winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas has stretched stylistically from his Chablis roots to the further reaches of southern Burgundy, and produced a wine with aromas and flavours that are rich in both range and quality. They are complemented by gorgeous smooth texture, fine balance, and a long finish. Within the complexity, look for ripe fruit in the apple and pear zones with accents of nuts, caramel, smoke, and a streak of minerality. Pair it with baked firm white fish is a well-herbed cream sauce. (RP)


Reif Meritage 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.95
A blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is a well-made wine with all components well proportioned. The fruit is solid, through and through, the balance is right, and the tannins make it ready for drinking now or over the next five years. It has an attractive tangy texture and pairs well with well-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)


Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2000
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
"Triomphe" is Southbrook's equivalent of "Reserve" because, winery owner Bill Redelmeier says, Reserve has become so overused it has lost its meaning. I agree. There are a few wine regions where "Reserve" (and its foreign-language equivalents) are defined in wine law, but none of them is in Canada. This upper-tier Chardonnay was drawn from three vineyards, was barrel-fermented, and was aged 14 months in new French oak. It's a gorgeous expression, with some of the character of Meursault: rich, intense fruit, and a plump, mouth-filling, and creamy texture that approaches the buttery dimension. Complex and well structured, it's a great partner for grilled or baked halibut in a fairly rich cream sauce. Five years old now, it has another five or more left. (RP)