Argentina

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi Tupungato "Paso Doble Rosso" 2004
Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (996439)
The blend (this is Merlot predominant with a small amount of Corvina) alters each year, but the result is always spectacular. This Amarone-like beauty (made 'appassimento' - grapes dried on mats before pressing) whooshes from the glass with black currant and raisin aromatics then goes off on a tear with monstrous amounts of sweet black cherry fruit and licorice solidly wrapped in ripe and perceptible tannins. Ends with that classic bite that one expects from an Amarone. Aerate/decant for 5 or 6 hours before serving from now until 2010. (VH)

Australia

***1/2 drink now
McWilliam's Cabernet Merlot 2003
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (621599)
This makes a quartet of good-value from McWilliam's-one of Australia's biggest and oldest family-owned wineries-on the General List. The Cab-Merlot is mouth-filling and fruity (plum, raspberries, cherry) with vanilla and spice notes. It's decidedly dry with light tannins. Made for fairly easily drinking, it's great for mid-week hamburgers and other red meat dishes. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Emu Springs Chardonnay 2002
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (296988)
A beguiling nose of pineapple and toasty notes form the perfect entrance to this medium-bodied, well-priced white. Generous fruit flavours of topical fruit (melon, pineapple and stone fruit) that appear on the palate carry through to the finish. It then layers on a zesty component with a generous squirt of lemon-lime zing. Pair with grilled, oily fish. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Shiraz / Grenache 2003
Barossa Valley, Australia $14.95 (610725)
Black pepper, spice and ripe Bing cherries waft from the nose of this crowd-pleaser. The ripe black berry fruit on the palate fairly oozes around ripe tannins and the lovely zing of zestiness that forms the finish. This scores very highly on the Wow! meter. Drinking beautifully, now until 2009, with grilled medium rare steak. Superb value. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass "Grey Label" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Langhorne Creek $30.25 (470120)
An opaque monster that fires off lifted aromatics of toasty (18 months in oak) cassis and spice before engulfing the palate with a full-bodied nectar redolent of crushed black cherries and spicy dark plums with just a hint of mint. There are firm tannins on the finish wrapped around more sweet (14.5% alc.) fruit with good zing to keep it safe from jammy. Pricey, but worth a place at your table and your cellar; drinking now to 2014. (VH)

Canada: British Columbia

**** drink now
Mission Hill Vineyards Private Reserve Pinot Blanc 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $12.95 (300301)
From one of B.C.'s best. An impressive nose of floral, mineral and honey notes are an intriguing segue to this light to medium-bodied white. The ample citrus and stone fruit flavours are complemented by tingling acidity on a very clean finish. For those who prefer their wine polite rather than powerful. Pair it with veal in a cream sauce. (VH)

Canada: Ontario

**** drink now
Colio Harrow Estates Cabernet / Merlot 2002
VQA Ontario $10.95 (432054)
The brilliant bright ruby colour is the sign of a clean fresh wine and this delivers, starting with a lifted nose of cedar and currants with a smidgeon of leather. Layers of sweet red berry fruit greet the palate along with a ripe tannin structure adding interest and complexity. The gorgeous dusty fruit finish suggests pairing with grilled red meats. Great value from an excellent producer. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2004/Gamay Noir 2004 Gift Pack
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.90 for the two bottles (661033)

Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Look for zesty acidity and attractive lemon-lime with hints of tropical fruit in the background. Niagara's Sauvignon Blanc vines have taken a beating in the last few winters, but it's clearly a variety the region should fight to keep. This one goes very well with grilled freshwater white fish. (RP)

Gamay Noir 2004
Light bodied but full flavoured, this is a fine partner for roast turkey or grilled salmon. Floral and fruity aromas lead to complex flavours of sweet cherry with earthy notes that ground it nicely. It's well balanced and food friendly, and makes the case for Gamay as a variety that Niagara should focus on. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Lakeview Cellars Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (518068)
Sweet red cherry and floral notes form the aromatic segue to this light-bodied sipper. The flavours include more cherries and spiced plums with a hint of strawberry. It cleans up nicely suggesting it would pair well with pizza and pasta in tomato-based sauces. (VH)

France

****1/2 drink now
Louis Latour "Ardèche" Chardonnay 2004
Vin de Pays des Côteaux de l'Ardèche $10.95 (132498)
This iconic Burgundy producer now utilizes Rhône terroir with spectacular results. Toast and green apple aromas waft from this seductive white. This medium textured gem offers a cornucopia of sweet tropical and stone fruit flavours. It also provides a generous finish of citrussy melon flavours. The price to quality ratio computes to a bargain for you. (VH)

**** drink now
Yvon Mau Shiraz 2004
Vin de Pays de l'Aude $8.95 (621979)
Great value in this rich, full-flavoured Shiraz from the south of France. Concentrated, tangy, spicy flavours of cherry and plum are to the fore, and it's well balanced with light tannins. Well made, well priced and, well, it's a natural for everything from pizza with Italian sausage to hamburgers to mid-week stews and hearty pasta. (RP)

Germany

***1/2 drink now
Franz Reh Gewürztraminer 2004
QbA Pfalz $11.45 (622027)
This doesn't have the pungent, spicy flavours you often get with fat, off-dry Gewürztraminers, but it does offer attractive peach and apricot flavours with notes of red grapefruit and there's no doubt that it's a Gewürztraminer. There's more acidity here than usual, too, making this more versatile for food, and I'd recommend pairing it with slightly spicy chicken or seafood dishes, or with smoked salmon. (RP)

Italy

**** drink now
Bolla Rosso 2003
IGT Sicily $10.95 (621128)
A blend of about 60% Syrah and 40% Nero d'Avola, this is terrific value. You get complex, concentrated dark fruit, a host of spicy, earthy notes, and surprising tannins for a General List wine. Dry and flavourful, this is priced for pizza, but goes well with grilled lamb and medium-rare steak. You might decant it an hour before drinking to get the best out of it. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Fuedo Arancio Syrah 2002
IGT Sicily $11.95 (621730)
A well-made red with rich dark berry aromas and flavours with complex notes of spice, pepper, and coffee beans. With a tangy, attractive texture, it's nicely balanced with light tannins. Pair it with rich red meat dishes with wild mushrooms. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mezzo Mondo Negroamaro 2003
IGT Salento $7.95 (588962)
A unique and generous nose of candied cherries, spice and black plums greet the taster. This medium to full-bodied gem is rich with cassis and concentrated raspberry flavours and enough drying tannins to make it a keeper. There is a solid core of ripe, black fruit throughout. By any measure, this is ridiculously under-priced and worthy of a place at your table alongside almost any manner of red meat dishes, now to 2009. (VH)

Spain

***** drink or cellar
Osborne "Solaz" Shiraz/Tempranillo 2004
Viños de la Tierra de Castilla $9.65 (610188)
Think of this burgeoning Spanish region as analogous to a new hot Vin de Pays region in France. This region is hot in terms of temperature, as well, and is where Cervantes' Don Quixote clopped about. Look for a robust nose of dried currants and tobacco providing the segue to a rich, dark brooding pool of concentrated flavours (chocolate, cherries, tar) and grippy tannins. They all coalesce to make this full-bodied red tilted very heavily in your favour on the quality to price balance. (VH)