Port Wine
Warre’s Otima ‘10 Year Old Tawny’ Port
Porto, Douro, Portugal $21.95 500 mL (566174) 20% alcohol
Made with top-drawer Port grapes, this is fresh as a daisy—bottled 2011—smooth as silk and chockfull of luscious aromas and flavours. An alluring bouquet swirls with caramel, roasted nuts and peel marmalade to the fore. It bathes the palate with sweet toffee, desiccated apricot and fig interlaced with hints of mint. It’s über delicious sipped on its own or paired with crème brûlée or crème caramel. Kept tightly corked in the refrigerator, this will stay fresh for three weeks after opening. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Méthode Traditionelle Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 (078055) 13.0% alcohol
A classic Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend vinified as it is in Champagne, this spent three-plus years on its lees before being hand disgorged just prior to release. CdC has done all the hard work – just pop the cork and breathe in aromas of baking bread, strawberries and currants that herald a profusion of petite bubbles and delectable flavour with red berry fruit, yeasty notes and spiced red plum to the fore. It’s balanced and beautiful with a crisp, lip-smacking aftertaste. Sip or pour with salmon or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Table Wine
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet – Merlot 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (454991) 12.5% alcohol
There’s dark toast, kitchen spice and cedar on the nose of this red blend—both Cabernets and Merlot. It splashes over the palate with boysenberry, savory herbs and sour cherry framed by a solid line of acidity bolstered by supple tannin. Its mid weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length finish of red currant interlaced with earthy notes and wisps of oak. (Vic Harradine)
Matías Ríos, Winemaking Manager for the incredibly popular Cono Sur Vineyards and Winery, was recently in Ontario speaking and pairing wines at a Cono Sur-sponsored dinner at Fairmont Chateau Laurier in Ottawa in support of Clean Air Champions. Matías was last with winecurrent in 2009… read this feature. BTW, Cono Sur is Spanish for the Southern Cone—the shape of the southern portion of Chile, showcasing for Cono Sur where their grapes are grown and wines made. The wines served at dinner are reviewed below. Unfortunately, can’t include Matías’ introduction to each; can only emphasize that the wines are infused with his passion and charming, friendly, easy-going style.
A serious proponent of sustainable agriculture, Cono Sur walks the talk with hundreds of acres certified organic and yet other projects awaiting bio-dynamic, Demeter certification. They’re the first certified CarbonNeutral winery in the world. After graduating with an Agricultural Engineering degree, Matías first worked in the industry with table grapes before discovering it was much more interesting and rewarding to drink, rather than eat, the fruits of his labour. Matías has a host of responsibilities at Cono Sur with choosing specific site development for particular varietals and managing their sustainable and organic initiatives near the top of the lengthy list.
Cono Sur ‘Sparkling Wine’ Non Vintage
DO Bio-Bio Valley, Chile $13.95 (215079) 12.0% alcohol
A blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, the nose dishes up an array of aromas—citrus, a touch of mineral and floral nuances. It hustles from the glass with loads of ripe fruit—apple pear and peach—riding a wave of zesty bubbles. This is light-mid weight with good definition on the leesy, racy, mouth-watering finish. Well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Bicycle’ Viognier 2011
DO Colchagua, Chile $9.95 (064287) 13.8% alcohol
Honeysuckle and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas herald a balanced and beautiful wash of juicy white peach and ripe sweet melon interlaced with racy citrus. It’s mid weight with very generous mouth feel—silky smooth and creamy—and a persistent, lip-smacking finish showcasing honey-tinged orchard fruit and wisps of exotic spice. Consistently one of the best-value whites on LCBO shelves. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Organic’ Chardonnay 2011
DO Valle de San Antonio, Chile $11.95 (230565) 13.2% alcohol
Mineral/slate and citrus aromas open this hand-picked, cool-climate, coastal beauty. Light-mid weight, crisp and refreshing, there’s a solid core of fruit—ripe apple, tangy citrus, sweet pear and succulent peach—on the palate. The dazzling finish is mouth-watering and lip-smacking good. Pour alongside seared scallops, mussels steamed in white wine or lemon veal. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2011
DO Casablanca, Chile $12.95 (270066) 13.4% alcohol
There’s good value here—aromas of tropical fruit, citrus and peach waft easily for this medium-weight, nicely textured Chardonnay. It’s brimming with sweet tropical fruit, pineapple, mango and melon interlaced with moderating lemon chiffon pie and pineapple. It finishes with lip-smacking, tangy white grapefruit and succulent, ripe peach. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Bicycle’ Pinot Noir 2011
DO Valle Central, Chile $10.95 (341602) 13.5% alcohol
Pinot Noir is a Cono Sur specialty; it great value at every price point. This was primarily hand-harvested from an area marked by classic Pinot conditions, cool nights, misty mornings. Opening with a quiet nose of currants and spice, it bathes the palate with a wave of soft black plum, dark, juicy cherry and spiced black currant. It’s rich and balanced with medium body, a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a balanced finish that offers good fruit and moderating acidity. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘20 Barrels’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
DO Maipo Valley, Chile $26.95 (094128) 13.6% alcohol
This hand-harvested, limited-production gem spent 17 months in oak barrel before bottling. It rips from the glass with an alluring bouquet of dark berry fruit and exotic spice interlaced with fennel and cola. Cassis, ripe, sweet mulberry and spice-infused black plum mingle with espresso roast and toasty notes washing over the palate in waves. It’s balanced, with good structure and no shortage of charm. The lengthy fruit-filled finish is complex and layered. A recent Vintages release, there’s stock on shelves. (Vic Harradine)
Coyote’s Run ‘Five Mile White’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (195669) 11.5% alcohol
A blend of Riesling (principally), Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer, this wine offers a lovely whiff of floral, spice and sweet fruit aromas. Mid weight, it’s dry, clean and crisp in texture with citrus and mineral mingling with a touch of sweet orchard fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced, juicy and a bit pithy on the finish, serve as a sipper or with lemon garlic roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek $35.95 (116442) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 16 months in French oak, just over 100 cases of this well-structured Pinot were produced—so get yours soon! A notion of sweet dark fruit, spice and vanilla tantalizes the nose. Silky in texture and dry, this wine matches flavours of ripe field berries with an earthy quality and a replay of spice and vanilla on a long, dry finish. Finely wrought, with perceptible tannin, it’s a candidate for cellaring or a match for beef tenderloin with a wild mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
Creekside Estate Pinot Grigio 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (083196) 12.5% alcohol
Floral and mineral notes meld with citrus and spice on the nose while white peach, green apple and lemon zest play on the palate infusing the lip-smackingly good aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and a mid-length aftertaste of white grapefruit and racy lemon-lime. Pairs well with lemon sole or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Creekside Estate Shiraz 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (066654) 13.0% alcohol
This is a lovely drop with oodles of bright red and black fruit with a balanced, fruit-filled finish. Wood smoke and dark berry fruit on the nose, it broadens out on the palate with a tasty, fruit-filled river of red and black berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and cassis. This is nicely balanced with good structure and weight and a lingering finish that showcases ripe red fruit, good acidity and supple tannin. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin - The history and present success of the entire Ontario wine industry are inextricably entwined with Inniskillin Wines. Co-founders, Donald Ziraldo, and winemaker, Karl Kaiser, were granted an Ontario winery license in 1975, the first granted since prohibition—repealed in Ontario in 1927 along with the formation of the LCBO.
Inniskillin went from strength to strength via Ziraldo’s prescient vine selection and vine management plus his indefatigable marketing efforts, and Kaiser’s outstanding winemaking talent. Their Inniskillin1989 Vidal icewine thrust Canada onto the world wine stage as recipient of a Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in Bordeaux in 1991. Ziraldo was also a prime mover and founding chair of VQA—minted in 1989.
Both Kaiser and Ziraldo retired from the day-to-day work of running Inniskillin eight years ago. Inniskillin continues to be an exciting force in the industry with strong initiatives in both Niagara and the Okanagan with winemakers Bruce Nicholson and Sandor Mayer, respectively, handling those reins. Their wines are consistently quality-driven and value-laden, easily placing them in the top-tier of premium Ontario wineries. The following four wines from their ‘Niagara Estate’ series—all decked out in subtly elegant, newly designed labels—are excellent examples of the compelling, quality-value proposition.
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate - Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (066266) 13.0% alcohol
Straw coloured with a tinge of green, this sports a delightful nose of ripe apple and pear, vanilla and hints of white flowers. It’s deftly balanced with mid weight and very generous mouth feel garnished with a wash of lemon-lime, minerality and ripe pit fruit. It’s crisp and refreshing on the palate and mouth-wateringly good on the lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate’ Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (323444) 14.0% alcohol
An outstanding vintage, a premium winery plus impeccable viticulture and winemaking practices coalesce in this juicy, value-packed red. Aromas of spice-infused black plum and toast mingle with wisps of cedar providing segue to a balanced, palate-bathing wash of red raspberry, blueberry and pomegranate. It’s medium-full bodied with silky mouth feel and a racy, mouth-watering, dry finish garnished by ripe tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate’ Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (261099) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, beet root and savory aromas provide segue for a balanced and beautiful river of tangy red cherry and racy, spice-laden pomegranate interwoven with ripe, juicy black plum. It’s light on its feet with good texture and a dry, fruit-filled aftertaste that’s lengthy and lip-smacking good. Pour with grilled, cedar-planked salmon.(Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate’ Late Autumn Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (219543) 11.2% alcohol
Honeyed nectarine, apple and ginger aromas on the nose, this bathes the palate with delicate, spiced yellow plum, ripe succulent pear and crisp Granny Smith apple—all infused and balanced with racy lemon acidity. It’s lighter styled with good texture and an affinity for sipping alone or pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. It finishes off-dry with oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)
David Mirassou, 6th generation family and current winemaker for Mirassou Family Wine Making, was in Ontario and winecurrent enjoyed lunch, a tasting, and an opportunity to meet with him at the fabulous Festival Japanrestaurant in downtown Ottawa. Serendipitously having recently tasted and reviewed the wines served at lunch, it provided opportunity to focus on David and how the wines paired alongside cuisine one might consider challenging—sushi and sashimi with de rigueur accompaniments, wasabe, soy sauce and pickled ginger.
David’s background is wine, wine, and more wine, having immersed himself in every facet of the business. With an unbroken run of +150 years of it in his family—his grandfather was a close, personal friend of Ernest Gallo and Robert Mondavi—it runs in his veins. Mirassou is the top-selling Pinot Noir in both the United States and Canada.
David’s wife is a caterer and he’s a self-professed, ‘keen wine and food guy’, having traveled the country conducting seminars. Both the Pinot Noir and the Pinot Grigio paired from very good to excellent with every dish including sushi, sashimi and tempura, David contends it’s the incredible balance of the wines that allowed those quite amazing pairings. The tempura and the fabulous sushi-grade salmon pairings were outstanding with the Pinot Noir. In case you missed them previously, the reviews for both follow.
Mirassou Pinot Grigio 2011
California $12.95 (274480) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of honeyed peach and floral notes with hints of lychee waft easily from the glass of this balanced and brimming-with-fruit beauty. Waves of spice-infused, ripe yellow plum and honey dew melon wash over the palate in generously textured waves persisting through the refreshing aftertaste garnished with lively citrus tones. Well made, well priced and well… delectable—take a sip and you’ll know why. (Vic Harradine)
Mirassou Pinot Noir 2011
California $12.95 (185249) 13.5% alcohol
Easy to understand why this is so popular, it’s balanced and boasting sweet, ripe fruit. Bramble berry, spice and cola on the nose, there are mid-weight, nicely textured waves of ripe black currant, spice-infused, sweet black plum and red cherry washing over the palate, infusing the lingering, balanced aftertaste. It’s poured well on its own or alongside roast chicken or duck. (Vic Harradine)
Red Rock ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2010
California $16.95 (284315) 13.6% alcohol
Robust and concentrated aromas of dark, ripe berry fruit, aromatic bitters and cedar burst from the inky, purple-black liquid. Rich and luscious on the palate, black currant, black berry and tangy black plum compote mingle with toasty notes, washing in waves. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured with a drying aftertaste tailing off with wisps of underbrush, tannin and green herbal notes. Pour with pasta in spicy Bolognese sauce after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)