It's hard not to notice the response by suppliers to the LCBO's call for 'alternative, environmentally-friendly packaging' (a.k.a. not glass). Boisset was first to hop on board with Tetra Pak in 2005 with the wildly-successful launch of French Rabbit. Now Boisset have shown their mettle in launching new packaging—aluminum bottles—for their Mommessin brand, the world's largest producer of Beaujolais. Lightweight, attractive and 100% re-cyclable, they've added a cool new twist besides the screw cap. It's the 'cooldot'—thermosensitive ink that changes colour, alerting you to when the wine has reached ideal serving temperature. And, it chills faster than when in glass. The wine is kept from the metal container by an inert (epoxy phenolic) liner, similar to that used in stainless steel wine vats and soft drink cans. Sure, it's innovative and enviro-friendly, but we're also here for the wine; reviews follow.


Mommessin 'Grande Reserve' Chardonnay 2006
AOC Macon-Villages $14.95 (63446)
A pleasing nose of honeydew melon and sweet floral notes opens this pure and pristine light- to medium-bodied sipper. It's clean and refreshing (citrus and assorted tangy fruit flavours) on the palate and finish. Versatile, it's quite pleasant sipped on its own and also matches up well to grilled white fish. The aluminum bottle's quite elegant—desirable for gifting or bringing along to a dinner party. (VH)


Mommessin 'Grand Reserve Red' Beaujolais 2006
AOC Beaujolais $14.95 (63438)
Quintessential Beaujolais here with exuberant aromas of spring flowers and freshly-crushed grapes—the latter due to the special process (carbonic maceration) by which Beaujolais wines are fermented. The flavours are fresh and fruity, cherry and strawberry to the fore, without the astringency (tannins) usually associated with red wine. Serve chilled, not cold—the 'cooldot' works this out—either on its own or with chicken, veal or pan-seared salmon. (VH)



Nobilo 'Regional Collection' Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $15.60 (554444)
A knock-out wine, it delivers a raucous array of aromas and flavours—gooseberry, lemon zest, clove-infused red grapefruit and kiwi fruit. It has considerably more texture than expected from a wine with a bracing spine of acidity, but it's there and it's lovely. Well balanced and nicely structured, it finishes lengthy and refreshing. Pair with grilled prawns under a drizzle of garlic butter and fresh lemon. (VH)



Château des Charmes 'St. David's Bench Vineyard' Gamay Droit 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (582353)
Owner Paul Bosc discovered this special clone of Gamay in his vineyard and has propagated it with great success and to well-deserved accolades. Full of fresh fruity flavours—cherry, strawberry and red currant—it layers on elegance and structure with its supple texture and perfumed aromas of herbs, spice dark cherry and forest floor earthiness. It paired extremely well with roasted veal loin stuffed with pistachio and wild mushrooms. (VH)


Colio Estate CEV Lily Sparkling 2006
VQA Ontario $14.85 (509083)
A vintage sparkling wine of this calibre for under fifteen dollars certainly deserves your attention. Predominantly Riesling, this is zippy and refreshing with grapefruit and lemon peel aromas and flavours to the fore. It delivers lots of bubbles and a smooth texture throughout. It's very refreshing on the finish making it a favourite for serving to guests as a welcoming wine with freshly picked or purchased strawberries. Versatile, it sips beautifully on its own and has the body to pair with light chicken and veal dishes. (VH)


Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (43678)
Earning its final half star on value, this tingly clean white was made for goat cheese salads and warm summer fun. Via low yields, no malolactic conversion, stainless steel tank fermentation and no oak, master wine maker Jean-Pierre Colas has fashioned a zingy SB showing hints of grass and gooseberry on the nose and generous citrus flavours on the palate. It has a nice texture from some short lees ageing and 13% alcohol. (VH)


Royal DeMaria Cabernet Franc Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $89.20 (637652)
From the world's most decorated exclusive ice wine producer, this is a stunner. Ripe sweet black plum compote and black briary berry aromas and flavours wash over the palate in fully textured wave after wave. This sensuous dessert wine is creamy smooth and, amazingly, not cloying. The moderating acidity takes care of that. Can be easily served as the dessert, it also matched well to French vanilla panna cotta with orange chutney served with a sour cherry brittle. (VH)


Strewn 'Two Vines' Cabernet Merlot 2006
VQA Ontario $12.95 (590109)
A lovely red blend—47% Merlot/36% Cabernet Franc/17% Cabernet Sauvignon, that's incredibly smooth and a treat to drink now. The 12 months in oak is well integrated and the tannins imperceptible. Fully flavoured—black currant and bramble berry flavours to the fore, it finishes nicely with good balance and a clean taste of red cherry. This earned its final half star by delivering very good value. (VH)



Navip 'Fruška Gora' Riesling 2006
Serbia and Montenegro $7.65 (9548)
What a lovely wine; off-dry, fruity and simply delicious. It's not a typical Riesling, the nose is Muscat and spiced eggnog, but it delivers an aromatic and interesting array of aromas and flavours. Medium bodied, almost creamy, the sweet succulent flavours of apple compote and sugared pears (with hints of almonds) abound. The finish delivers that wonderful sweet and citrus tang that makes pairings with spicy Asian so delicious. (VH)



Red Guitar 'Old Vine' Tempranillo/Garnacha 2005
DO Navarra $12.85 (54007)
Spice and sweet berry aromas form the interesting nose of this medium-bodied red blend. You'll experience a lovely gusher of juicy black berry and Bing cherry flavours that are infused with moderating acidity that provides excellent balance and a tang in the aftertaste. Ripe firm tannins add structure and will allow this to age gracefully to 2011 and beyond. You'll be hard pressed to find a better crowd-pleaser for burgers and steaks at this price. (VH)