Australia

**** drink or cellar
Mitchell "The Growers" Grenache 2002
Clare Valley $22

The label's a bit bizarre, with repeated GSM letters. They generally mean Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz, Mourvèdre/Mataro, but here the blend is Grenache, Mourvèdre and Sangiovese. (Sangiovese is a variety to watch for from Australian producers, by the way.) It has a generous, fruity texture with intense red fruit flavours and spicy notes. The alcohol is high (15%) but it doesn't interfere with the balance. It went very well with roasted lamb and North African spices. Available from Lifford Agency at www.liffordwineagency.com. (RP)

France

**** drink now
Laurent Miquel "Nord Sud"Viognier 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $16

This has a lovely floral, fruity nose in the typical peach and apricot zones. It's full and mouth-filling, with a smooth texture and luscious apricot and peach flavours accented with sweet spice. The finish is long, with very attractive fruit notes. The balance is very good and the wine finishes very clean. Pair this with grilled pork tenderloin with fruit salsa. Order from the Lifford Agency at www.liffordwineagency.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Château de Lascaux Rosé 2004
AOC Coteaux de Languedoc $17

A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, this is a lovely rosé with classy rich fruit (berries and red tree fruit). It's dry, elegant, and a cut above most rosés of this style. Pair it with summer dishes with a bit of weight, like spicy beef salad. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

*****cellar
Château la Condamine Bertrand "Gourmandise" 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $38

A truly stunning wine made from 100% Petit Verdot. It's chock full of black, ripe fruit with prominent coffee and licorice notes. Big and brutish, mouth-filling and chewy, but yet with structure and even elegance under the sheer power. The tannins are firm and gripping, and this will benefit from three or four years aging, but you could tackle it now with a hunk of rare or medium-rare beef. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château la Condamine Bertrand "Barrique" 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $18

A blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, this offers full-throttle fruit with loads of complexity: mocha, pepper, spices romp among the dark plums, cherries and berries. Look for a generous texture, good structure, long, ripe tannins, and a long finish. It's perfect for rich red meat dishes. This producer has a very impressive portfolio. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine des Aires Hautes Minervois 2003
AOC Minervois $16

A stunning wine at a great price. There's no excuse not to buy this sort of thing by the case! It's packed with rich fruit (this is from 2003, that sweltering year in France), with and retains structure and flavour purity. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, it's a natural for grilled red meats. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)