****1/2 drink or cellar
Malivoire Wine Company Unoaked Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16
Rich and luscious, with flavours of sweet yellow peach and tropical fruit with layers of sweet spice. Look for a creamy, soft round texture, a crisp edge that balances the ripe fruit, and a long, clean finish of sweet fruit and citrus. Pair it with rich chicken or seafood (like scallops) appetizers in a light cream sauce. It can be bought directly from the winery. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire Wine Company Pinot Noir Vin Gris 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula (No retail price)
There’s a little story behind this wine. The original blending was done at Beckta Wine and Dining, an Ottawa restaurant. Malivoire’s then-winemaker, Ann Sperling, owner Martin Malivoire, and a small group of wine professionals (including the Winecurrent duo) spent an afternoon coming up with their best blend. The result is a stylish vin gris, with a rich, quite viscous, almost plush texture, and fine flavours of white peach, strawberry and apricot stone, with hints of honeysuckle and clover honey. It’s a real pleasure to drink, but here’s the catch: there’s none for sale. It’s available at only two restaurants in the province: Beckta Wine and Dining in Ottawa and Splendido in Toronto. (RP)