****1/2 drink or cellar
Montes Cabernet-Carmenère 2004
Colchagua Valley/Apalta about $18
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Carmenère, this packs a real wallop. It has rich, saturated dark fruit with notes of spice, pepper and roasted coffee, and is well structured. Full bodied with firm and ripe tannins, it finishes long sweet and spicy, and calls for a big red meat dish. Order from Whitehall Agency, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Catherine le Goeuil "Cuvée Marie Rouvère" Côtes-du-Rhône Cairanne 2003
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $23.95
The name's a bit of a mouthful, but then, so is the wine. It's a big, brutish red, juicy and rich, that delivers a wallop of black fruit that reflects that warm growing season of 2003. The dark cherry and plum are accented with smoke, spice, and garrigue herbs, and the wine is dry, with big, ripe tannins. For all that power, it has good complexity and balance, and the 14.5% alcohol slips by unnoticed. Pair this with big, well-seasoned red meat dishes. You can order from Airen Imports: (416) 604 4076. (RP)

**** drink now
Eugene Klipfel Tokay Pinot Gris 2004
AOC Alsace $19.90 (881599)
Just off-dry and very elegant, this shows the best traits of Alsatian Pinot Gris, with quite intense fruit (apricot stone, white peach, and honeyed notes), good weight and texture, fine balance, and a clean, crisp finish. You can order from R. Matthews Fine Wines at (416) 485 8356. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Les Peyrilles "Lou Garrigou" Rouge 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc About $11.95 (814947)
It was scorching all over France in the summer of 2003, but the south just baked in the sun. So did the grapes, and even though they were harvested early, they had an intensity and sugar content above the norm. This blend of Carignan and Syrah from 30-40 year-old vines is rich and fruity, but it has good structure, balance, and complexity. It's a terrific wine for hearty winter meals or the summer grill, and at this price you should buy it by the case. Order from Oakpoint Wines at (519) 337 5288. (RP)